Hello, and thanks for downloading and supporting the Anderson Firearms Model WildFire. There are some key differences between this design and the previous Ghostfire Model that sparked the sporadic spread and utility of the general AR Platform. There are a lot of housekeeping items we need to go over before you continue, which will answer a lot of questions and prevent y'all from cluttering my communications. First, lets go over what this instruction manual entails:
Manufacturing involves all the big details on how to successfully set up your printer and select the optimal slicer settings for the best print results
Assembly involves how to put these pieces together, including actual AR Lower pieces such as the pins both front and rear, the FCG (Fire Control Group), and the buffer tube. While the accessories are important, their assembly does not require a genius.
Application is how the whole system works, as there are key differences in the manual of arms of custom made 3d printed AR Lowers and accessories.
Maintenance is how to keep your AR rifle in top notch condition. Because we are dealing with 3D printed materials, there are some surprising things I have learned that should be noted when caring for your rifle after excess use.
Now that we have gotten the main contents out of the way, you can go ahead and get started on the official manual! To get started on your new build, move over and start on the "MANUFACTURING" section. However, if there are other house keeping items you want to inquire about, ill post them below in subsections.
To spread, disseminate, publish, propagate knowledge of manufacturing, transporting, and distributing the concept of expedient homemade firearms. To further the implementation and concept of the Disposable Biodegradable Armalite Model 15 Rifle Kit.
To combat the rise and resurgence of Communist, Marxist, and Socialist forces and actors both foreign and domestic. To radicalize Americans under the pretext of the Constitution. To uphold, maintain, and exert Western Ideology and radical extremist beliefs such as freedom, liberty, and justice. To counter attempts at deconstructing the concept of the United States of America by demoralization, collapse, crisis, and normalization of non-American Ideology. To provide for the common defence of the people under the American Republic, and to supply for the counter offense of oppressed peoples of authoritarian regimes.
To design a rifle kit for the AR-15 platform of rifles, that once outfitted, will enable a user to take this weapon into combat, and out of combat, in optimal condition. To design a rifle to last a minimum of 300 cartridges discharged, and an ideal maximum of 1000 cartridges or more discharged. To design a lower receiver to be compatible with the most commonly available upper receivers with forward assists. To design the entire kit without the use of brims, supports, or any kind of external use of additive manufacturing. To design the entire kit to use PLA/PLA+, the most common and inexpensive filament to use other than ABS.
Listen carefully, because there is a specific naming convention that I have applied to each file part. These files were named in this way because I picked them up from learning in the field of engineering, and have realized that this convention is very efficient at organizing and specifying exactly what parts or models are what, and that this way, things will get done faster and more orderly.
Here is an example of a file name and all the components of that name:
AF-WF-LR-PRT-001-STL.stl
Heres another example of a file name that is similar but different in other ways:
AF-WF-GS-MDL-002-SLDWRKS.sw
Now that you got an idea of how the naming convention works, it's time to make sense of the whole system.
First things first: This is not just a lower; Its a whole system that will convert your AR into a battle-ready rifle. This whole 'kit' is the whole deal, and here's what's inside:
Now for some notes:
Select what you want to print, and leave the rest of the files alone. They should be conveniently named after their function. If all you want is to print, look for the STL files of each product you desire. If you want to modify designs for yourself, look into the SolidWorks files, because I used Solidworks to craft this product. There are also STEP files as well for you if you use other CAD software. They all use the same naming convention so they shouldn't be difficult to sort out and use.
During testing, the WildFire Lower was printed at 80% while the rest of the parts were printed at 40% to 60%. However, for safety sake print according to the graph shown below for the best possible results. All prints were done in PLA, not ABS, not PETG, not Resin method, just plain-o PLA. I cannot guarantee that the kit will work with anything other than PLA, but i'm pretty sure that if it works in PLA, there's a high chance it'll work in ABS or other materials. Let me know what your results look like.
Instructions: In the graph below, print each of the items listed by loading the associated File Name STL into your preferred slicer, assuring that you follow the preferred range of infill, layer lines, and quantity of pieces. Do not load or print any of the files that are not listed below unless you understand what you are doing.
| File Name | Infill % | Layers Lines | Quantity |
|---|---|---|---|
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-001 | >=60 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-002 | >=80 | 6 | 1 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-003 | 100 | 6 | 1 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-004 | 100 | 6 | 1 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-005 | 100 | 6 | 1 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-006 | 100 | 6 | 2 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-007 | >=80 | 6 | 2 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-008 | >=80 | 6 | 4 |
| AF-WF-LR-PRT-009 | >=80 | 6 | 1 |
| AF-WF-PG-PRT-001 | >=80 | 3 | 1 |
| ANY CUSTOM SIDE PLATE | >=60 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-GS-MDL-001 | >=60 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-GS-MDL-002 | >=60 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-TC-PRT-001 | 100 | 6 | DEPENDS ON RAIL |
| AF-WF-TC-PRT-002 | 100 | 3 | DEPENDS ON RAIL |
| AF-WF-VF-PRT-001 | >=80 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-VF-MDL-001 | >=80 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-SS-PRT-001 | >=60 | 3 | 1 |
| AF-WF-SS-MDL-001 | 100 | 6 | 4 |
When loading the STL's onto the print bed, the orientation matters, and you will have to rotate the pieces, unless the STL files have them orientated correctly already. I have worked with each piece to make sure they are orientated correctly in STL and have loaded them in my preferred slicer (Cura) to double check that they are correct. Ideally you should print on the flattest side, and since there's a specific orientation required for each piece, you will have to refer to the images below to see the orientation required. The only piece that doesn't have a prefered orientation is the Design Plates, and that's because these custom plates are just for you to design and print, however you desire.
This is the sauce of the build, and will be the most interesting part of the manual. You'll notice that there are no external metal pieces: Great work has been put into ensuring that no external metal pieces are used whatsoever: everything you need to complete the kit comes right off the print bed, and no trip to a local hardware store is ever needed.
The only tools you will need are the following:
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When the WildFire Lower is assembled correctly, it will function identically to any other AR-15 platform of rifles. To use, make sure you follow all rules of your local range, and to follow the four fundamental rules of firearms:
Once you have memorized the rules, you should be ready to fire. Dry-firing is a good way to practice before shooting. Start by checking if your firearm is loaded, and lock the bolt open. Operate the fire-selector from "F"(Fire) to "S"(Safe). Insert an empty magazine into the lower, practicing the use of your work space to operate the firearm easily. Once inserted, close the bolt. Take aim, ensuring that your finger remains off the trigger. Switch the fire selector to "F"(Fire), and dry fire when the target picture is acquired.
The firearm was tested with the following kinds of magazines, all with success:
Mortaring is when a malfunction renders the bolt inoperable by the charging handle, and thus must be forcefully ejected by slamming the stock into the ground while yanking down on the charging handle. That said, mortaring is unfortunately a weakness of this kit, because limitations on the stock means that mortaring of any kind will most likely break not the stock but it's bolts. Thus when mortaring, expect to replace the bolts that are used to secure the stock.
These are essentially diopter sights, and should be treated like the standard iron sights used on the M4/M16 platform of rifles. The difference is that there is only one option instead of flippable long range and short range, and its pretty big compared to the pinholes of other diopter sights. This choice was made because bigger pin holes would allow the eye to acquire a sight picture faster, at the cost of some precision. However, this was also a utilitarian choice: you would still be able to hit man size targets out to 100 yards, and four inch groups at 50 yards. It's not perfect, but it works.
To zero the sights, the front post adjusts for elevation, while the rear post adjusts for windage. Here's how I adjust my sights:
The idea is not to get headshots or bullseyes. The idea is to be able to reliably hit man size targets should you touch out to 100 or even 200 yards. One thing you should note is that this device was never tested out to 100 yards, but tests at 50 yards showed that the sights can hold zero. This was a limitation of the ranges I have been to, so if I had the option to shoot out to 100, I would have.
This is a big part of all of my devices: To ensure that they're tested to work and work reliably in the field. The purpose of this test is to show that my lower can withstand 300 rounds, and if so, you may test further to see how much cartridges you can expend before failure or seizure. That said, my testing was done through 2 trips to the range with a friend and we blasted 300 rounds without major malfunctions and issues. We had only ever encountered one failure to feed on the first cartridge of a fully loaded magazine when racking the charging handle, and the bolt did not pick up a round. I later discovered that the malfunction was not caused by the lower, but by the magazine, which was an aluminum STANAG. This magazine was given to me because another friend who used it reported issues with it when shooting 300 BLKOUT with this magazine. Other than that, the lower experienced no issues, and chugged 300 cartridges without any malfunction or breakage. Note that in between range trips one and two, the only major change to the lower was a reprint of a better and more ergonomic pistol grip. The new grip was a far superior design in terms of comfort and gripability. Overall a huge success. Photos will be attached below to showcase testing.
For the most part, the upper receiver will be cleaned normally, as the lower was found to leave no plastic residue that required anything else to be cleaned. The lower however, will have to be cleaned as frequently as the upper. Previously, metal lowers do not need to be maintained at all like the uppers because residue does not impact the Fire Control Group's ability to function. Because PLA is printed in layers, excess carbon can build up in between layers and would increase friction on the fire control group, which may impact the ability for the trigger to function. I say maybe because I have never experienced the trigger failing to function, but have noted that as carbon begins to build up in excess of 200 rounds during testing, the trigger pull was in fact heavier, but it continues to function as intended. When cleaning the lower, focus on wiping carbon off the magazine well, as well as carbon imparted on the hammer, and the inside well of the fire control group. You do not need to disassemble to the Fire Control Group, just wipe any spots with carbon on them. Note that carbon will be imprinted onto the lower, and thus cannot be removed completely.
There is one major instance where a full breakdown and clean is required: When the weapon is deployed in adverse conditions (rain and mud). This means disassembling the Fire Control Group and wiping the section dry. What I notice is that rust can rapidly develop in the lower. To be frank, I'm not sure why, but I would assume the reason boils down to some property of layers and PLA retaining moisture which means a through clean is required. This is something that I'm very adamant about: clean the gun after you get water in it. Im certain that this rule also applies to conventional aluminum lowers, but more so on these WildFire Lowers.
The WildFire was designed to blast through a clean 1000 cartridges, and then have the buffer tube connector and support struts replaced. Rather than printing the whole lower everytime it fails, this design allows you to only print the parts you need to replace, and not the whole lower each time. This saves a lot of material, time, and allows you to bring replacement parts on the field to repair it in the field, although this should not be necessary. This design was also done to take advantage of increased structural strength by allowing the normal force of the Bolt Carrier Group to act against layer lines, not with it. You will know that this means when you print and realize that the adhesion of layer lines is the real flaw of a printed piece's ability to withstand compression and tension, and that the orientation of the printed pieces eliminates this possibility. Replace pieces if necessary when enough rounds (1000) have been put through them, or when cracks and heat warping is observed.
The biggest revolution of this build and the Ghostfire model is the no metal no nonsense philosophy. This means that other than the standard AR Build Kit, there are no external nut, bolt, washer, or metal of any kind! This means you don't need to visit the hardware store to get this build into action. No nonsense also means that you do not need to implement any form of 3D Printed tricks of any kind, nor any supports, and because this was entirely designed around the use of PLA, virtually any 3D printed material is compatible with this design. No modification of anything at all, just slap the files on your slicer, and rock n' roll. The design was even tested at 40-80% infill, to ensure that even at its weakest and worse, it could still run. All needed supports are already built into the design, which means you don't need to add your own. Because of the small size of each print, these parts are certain to fit smaller print beds. No nonsense, no stupidity, idiot proof, almost marine grunt proof.
Because printer go brrrrrrr.
Because this has to be said: You print it, thus you are responsible for its outcome. Under no circumstances am I held responsible should this design go south. However, as you will know, I did in fact check and test my designs and provided proof of these checks and tests to show that the design works. The proof will be found in the Application section, where I will detail the results of long term extreme testing, and the optimal round count before recommended replacement of certain parts, or the whole lower. You have been warned.
On another serious note, any mass killing, mass shooting, or mass (insert illegal crime here) caused by this device is not my fault or intention. I have never designed and intended for this device to be used as a means to an end of a violent crime or violent acts. What you do with my knowledge is your responsibility.
Anyone who tries to sell you this device or the knowledge to sell you this device is ripping you off. This device is of open domain, so unless you don't own a printer and need to buy one from a friend for educational purposes, you're being ripped off. That said, follow your local laws and make sure you understand what manufacturing entails.
Yes. The next model(s) are going to:
By printing this lower, duhhh.